A tasteful samurai who, though quiet,
happily engages in conversation and toasts!
A shop with such a samurai!
Exquisite okonomiyaki "Hagi Samurai" made by a
samurai who genuinely shaves his pate!

A tasteful samurai who, though quiet, happily engages in conversation and toasts! A shop with such a samurai!Exquisite okonomiyaki “Hagi Samurai” made by a samurai who genuinely shaves his pate!
HIROSHIMA OKONOMIYAKI HAGI ZAMURAI

Walking for a while from the ruins of Hagi Castle Line's ticket office toward Karajima Bridge, you'll find Hagi Samurai.

You might miss it during the daytime—the shop is just the right size. A lantern inscribed with "Hagi Samurai" is lit before opening.
The sign "Currently in Battle" indicates the shop is open.

I arrived earlier than our promised time and was about to wait outside the shop when Nakamoto, who happened to be holding a noren curtain, came out from the shop.
The usually composed Hagi Samurai relaxed his expression slightly and welcomed me in with "Please come in."

萩nonta

First, I'd like to ask you about the origin of the shop's name.

中元

It's simple and easy to understand, but it's not commonly used.
Since I'm doing this in Hagi, I just used the name Hagi Samurai as is.
When posting on SNS, I can type the kanji "Hagi Samurai" right away, so I decided on it with that in mind too.

萩nonta

Hagi is associated with the late Edo period...and samurai imagery, but surprisingly it's not a common combination.

※Currently there is a ramen shop, but apparently at the time the shop was opened, there were surprisingly few restaurants with "samurai" in their names in Hagi

中元

It's the name of the shop, but it's like I'm known that way by my appearance.
When I meet people for the first time, they remember me as "that samurai from back then!" so it's a win-win.

中元

When customers call a taxi, they can just say over the phone "I'm at Hagi Samurai right now," and it goes through just fine, so I think it's starting to catch on a bit.

萩nonta

Originally, you're from Mihara City, Hiroshima Prefecture, right?

中元

That's right.
Born and raised in Mihara.

萩nonta

Onomichi and Innoshima are close by, aren't they?
What kind of town is it?

中元

Onomichi is about as far from Hagi as going to Nagato.
Mihara is very convenient, the Shinkansen stops there, and it's close to the airport.

中元

It's a convenient town with active industry, but tourism isn't really a thing.
My hometown where my family is is even more rural though.

萩nonta

What prompted you to come to Hagi from convenient Mihara?

中元

When I was around 25, I had a reason to want to become a samurai, and I searched "samurai work" on job listing sites. Hagi came up, and since it was relatively close, I thought I'd give it a try.
It was tourism-related samurai work, and I lived in Hagi for just a few months at the end of that job, then went back to Hiroshima once it ended.

中元

After that, for about 2 years, I'd go to Hagi once every 2-3 months, and through that, learning both the good and bad sides, I thought Hagi was more interesting and fun than my hometown.

萩nonta

So you came to really appreciate Hagi, or perhaps Hagi was more suited to your nature?

中元

I'm a country person too, so the slow pace suits me.

中元

I'm often told "Isn't Hiroshima or Mihara better?" but every place has its problems, and if it's going to be the same no matter where I go, I might as well do what I can in a place I like.
There aren't really any particular problems with living here either.

萩nonta

What prompted you to open a shop in Hagi?

中元

After graduating high school, I got a job at a local company, and then became a rickshaw puller on Miyajima.
When I was young, I was thinking of just doing what I wanted to do, but my boss at the time asked what I wanted to do in the future.
I thought, I love samurai, and I want to live as a samurai.

中元

So I thought about how to live that way, how to make money, and after thinking about various options, I landed on food service.
At the time, a regular okonomiyaki restaurant I went to asked me to help out because they were short-handed, so I started helping. I thought it would be interesting if a samurai ran an okonomiyaki restaurant.
So I decided to open an okonomiyaki restaurant.

中元


萩nonta

So you decided to become a samurai, moved, and opened a shop.

萩nonta

In Hagi, there are many people who move for reasons like history, World Heritage sites, rich nature, or who become part of the related population, but your reason was different from those?

※Related population: People who are continuously involved in a specific region in diverse ways other than moving or tourism. Often refers to people between tourists and permanent residents.

中元

That's right.
People often misunderstand based on what I do and how I look, but that's just a result. I do like history though.

中元

I have far more acquaintances and friends I've made as an adult in Hagi than in my hometown, so if I was going to run a shop, it made sense to do it in Hagi rather than my hometown.
It's not like if it fails I can just go back home. I thought I needed to be prepared to end my life in this land, to be that serious about it.

中元


萩nonta

When you first opened the shop, you hadn't shaved your pate yet, right? Was there a reason you decided to shave it?

中元

I shaved my pate in May 2020, and before that I always wanted to try it, but I couldn't quite bring myself to take that final step...

中元

When I talked about it with people around me, they all said it would suit me, so while I still felt that urge, I announced on the shop's SNS that I would shave my pate, cutting off any way to back out.

中元


萩nonta

There was quite a gap between when you opened the shop and when you shaved your pate.
Did anything change after you shaved it?

中元

Before, I just had long hair tied up.
I wore kimono for work, but wore Western clothes when shopping or on days off, so it was halfway.
When I shaved my pate, I decided to only wear kimono and keep my head uncovered and properly styled while living.

中元

I started living with my pate shaved and in kimono for work, shopping, and days off too.
Surprisingly after that, people said things like "I used to hate it but now I like it," or "You're so rock," and some people even became fans.
I think people understood that I had made up my mind by shaving my pate.

中元


萩nonta

Did you get more customers with the word-of-mouth about a samurai with a shaved pate running an okonomiyaki restaurant?

中元

Sometimes, yes.
Like student kids who saw me at the supermarket, asked friends about me, and heard "That's Hagi Samurai, an okonomiyaki restaurant," so they came.
Or people who saw me on the marru bus, searched for me, and found Hagi Samurai that way.

中元

Basically people said "There's a samurai there so let's check it out," and came.
Some people thought "What does that mean?" but then came and found "Wow, it's a pretty serious samurai!"
That kind of reaction too.

中元


萩nonta

So it's mostly direct sightings and word-of-mouth.
Do you have a lot of foreign customers?

中元

We did before COVID.
Japanese tourists and foreign tourists were about evenly split, but after COVID, we have fewer than before.
Before COVID, a lot of people said they came by while passing through.
Or they said they found us through a search.

中元

Now almost all of it is like this, but people who were referred by their accommodation.
Since we accommodate vegetarians and vegans as much as possible, a lot of people come through those referrals too.

中元


萩nonta

You accommodate vegetarians and vegans.
For example, if someone requested "Can you accommodate Halal?" would you be able to do that?

※Halal (Halal food): Permitted under Islamic law. In cooking terms, it means food that doesn't use pork or alcohol, which are haram (forbidden).

中元

If you explain it to me in detail, I'll try my best to accommodate it.
Right now we have a lot of vegetarians and vegans.

中元

By doing "I'll try my best," it led to a flow where people say "Hagi Samurai accommodates vegetarians, so I'll refer people there."

中元


萩nonta

That's a strong point!
It would be great if that spreads more.

中元

A bit of a tangent, but...
After 8 years and having customers from many countries, I've realized that foreign customers don't have the same culture of drinking a lot with food like Japanese people do.

中元

When I've been to restaurants in Hiroshima where foreigners often go and watched the owner's movements, once the customers' meal was finished and chatting began, the owner would approach and try to get them to order more drinks.

中元

And they also have good ingredients and good alcohol.
Alcohol is strong, but they don't drink much and seem to enjoy conversation and atmosphere instead.
The habit of drinking alcohol heavily while eating is probably unique to Japan.

中元


中元


萩nonta

That's valuable insight from actual experience.
Have there been things you're glad you've done?

中元

What's good is that people come from outside the city or prefecture on business, and foreign customers come fairly often, so there's stimulation every time.
Also, when I work hard to communicate with foreign customers and they eat beautifully, it makes me really happy.

中元

Also, our shop is mainly a nighttime operation, but I try to make it a place with good safety, and that seems to come across—we have quite a few customers who are mothers with children or women alone, and I'm grateful for that.

中元


萩nonta

A place that's open late into the night where a single woman can feel safe eating is actually pretty rare.
Have you had any hardships?

中元

After COVID, whether everyone's purse strings got tight or not, right now is difficult with customers not really coming back.
During COVID, apparently civil servants were told to get orders to go out in small groups and keep the economy moving, so civil servants would come even in small groups.

中元

After COVID, that's no longer the case, so eating out frequency has probably decreased.
Also, you see foreign people and Japanese tourists around during the day, but not at night.

中元


萩nonta

It's a bit surprising that you have fewer customers after COVID than during it.
Finally, do you have any message for your customers?

中元

Our main focus is okonomiyaki, but I'd be happy if customers used the place in various ways without being bound to that.
Even regular customers don't eat okonomiyaki at all, and there are people who actually dislike okonomiyaki but still come.
Some people just come to drink alcohol, and some just come for juice or coffee.

Hagi-nonta Review

At first glance, the cluttered interior of the shop actually creates a relaxing atmosphere.
Open late into the night, it's a place where even a single woman can feel safe dining and drinking, and the staff flexibly accommodates different food cultures—a remarkably genteel establishment.
There's no flashy performance, but in a space where the sound of the radio and teppan grill are pleasant, the alcohol and dishes made silently by the samurai are exquisite.
I highly recommend trying the okonomiyaki made by the owner, who possesses a rock-and-roll samurai spirit.

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    When the hair is down, it goes to about chest level, and I cut it once a year.
    I shave my pate every day.
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About the Shop